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Chapter 13
By Cora Kerr
Val Verde Camp
Dear George,
In response to
your call for experiences here in Mexico, I offer a few of the many I
have. . .
Ten years of
living in Punta Banda has given me a wealth of memories!
There are the
wounded or starving birds I've found on the beach. Gaviota was
paralyzed when I found
him. Following the advice of a seagull expert
from Marine World, I tube fed him and perched him in the ice plant with
a view of the sea until he was able to stand. Then he ate sardines from
my hand, and we ran together in the surf. Gloriously, after more than a
month, he took flight. Then there was Jefferson, the starving pelican,
who, after flying off a week later, would return for months to be fed on
our seawall. And there was broken-winged Baby, a pelican who, despite
his permanent handicap, gobbled bait fish at midnight, swam with my
husband, and sunned himself on the seawall for four glorious months.
Then there are
the puppies rescued from the dump and the roadside after accidents. Hoppy,
the fat black sausage, goes begging from neighbors having outdoor
barbeques. Valiente, who spent three months at the vet getting the
infection in her pulverized foot under control, can run faster than the
wind. Jocqo, who lost an eye to glaucoma, is perpetual play and
appetite. Nola, who suffered mange so severely that she was bloody and
hairless, is endlessly grateful for her rescue. Cajita, a shepherd mix
I found in a lunch pail seven years ago, will forever be a tiny puppy in
the body of a huge dog.
Then there are
the kittens discovered in garbage cans in Ensenada and bottle fed.
Bathed and protected by our family dogs, they curl up with their adopted
mothers, completely ignoring the species difference. Almejita cannot
get enough cuddling; Perla, perched on a counter with a perpetual sneer
on her face, swipes at passers-bye and growls. Though nearly three, she
is the size of a kitten. Apparently small cats have a better survival
rate in a culture where pets are less common, and wild cats vie for
fewer left-over scraps.
Of course, my
memory does not just dance with animals. Fascinated with Spanish, I've
realized that the language--rich in the subjunctive mode, the mode of
wishes and unrealized desires--reflects the cultural reality of a people
who do not expect to have everything. And the Mexicans' patient
encouragement and praise of anyone attempting to learn Spanish speaks of
a disarming humility. A knowledge of Mexican history perhaps explains
the reticence to say "No." Survival has been a matter of being able to
complete any job, meet any deadline, so a Mexican worker will grin and
assure you he can fix the heater despite the unavailability of parts.
And, incredibly, given the ability to make-do with whatever is at hand,
he often can actually succeed. If he can't, he will accept that
inability with the same aplomb he accepts whatever impoverishment or
tragedy life hands him. "Ni modo," he will smile. "That's just the way
it is."
And, of course,
as a woman, I have luxuriated in the Mexican worship of Mothers.
Officials have waived import taxes when told that the heater was for my
mother. Children have run after my elderly mother to return money
dropping from her unzipped purse. The Border Patrol, confronted with
Mother peeling a banana at a time when the threat of fruit flies made
transporting fruit forbidden, simply grinned. And I have been respected
and loved because I am a mother in a culture that operates far more on
the values of the heart than on the value of the coin.
Living in
Mexico, in a culture different than my native American culture, has been
a wondrous experience. As a child, visiting Acapulco with my mother, I
told a waiter who apologized for the rain that I didn't mind it and
that, in fact, I was going to end my days living in Mexico. That just
popped out--unpremeditated. How lucky I am that my wish became reality.
Cora Kerr
Campo San Martin
del Mar
Author's Note: My daughter visited us in Punta Banda
when we were living there. She also expressed a desire to retire there.
I'm sure that it will not be the same as she remembered when she reaches
retirement age.
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